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Permalink Reply by Nick Cho on January 2, 2008 at 8:24pm

Can't help... no experience with the AV's. That said, now's your chance to retrofit it into a 3EE (semi-auto)!!!

Get the group-to-solenoid tubes (with flow restrictors), which will bypass your flowmeters. Then get the brain and wiring for the 3EE and you're good to go!

Good luck!

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Permalink Reply by Mickael on January 3, 2008 at 9:30pm

I've seen weird things happen with ribbon cables even when they are new. I would also troubleshoot the button boxes (try swapping them to see if anything changes). The usual spot for wiring problems is at the cpu connectors. I'm trying to remember "masked", does your hot water switch plug into the back of one of the button boxes?

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Permalink Reply by Ryan Baughn on January 4, 2008 at 6:45am

Yes, the mask has the hot water plug into the far left button box according to the wiring diagram, though I have seen it plugged into the right box too. The mask has the 10-pin connectors common in the 90's. I've seated and reseated all of the ribbon cables into the cpu several times, as well as the two connectors where the seat into the board. I'll give the button swap a shot, they are all brand new boxes, but you never know. I think I will also make sure all the connections into the two board connectors check out.

Thanks!

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Permalink Reply by Mickael on January 4, 2008 at 7:00am

Your on it! I'm really leaning towards button boxes, try leaving the hot water valve solenoid and switch unplugged, you may have an issue with a bad coil (I would also check all other solenoid coils). Also check to make sure that the brain is not grounded to the fill valve. I don't know why ESI did that but it caused all kinds of problems. Run the ground wire from the brain to the boiler. Good luck!

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Permalink Reply by Rich Westerfield on January 4, 2008 at 12:05pm

We had a similar issue at end of November. The flowmeter field sensor wasn't putting out sufficient ohms, which was screwing up everything else in the CPU (turning on spigot, overfilling boiler, issues with button lights, etc.). So you might want to ask ESI if that's the case with yours as well.

As about half of us run it as an EE anyway, next time out we think we'll skip the electronics. Heck, maybe we'll even get a Arduino Athena ;-)

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Permalink Reply by Archtop67 on June 4, 2013 at 10:16am

Wow! Im a few years late, but I have a recently acquired 3EE and I have similar issue... Ive checked grounds and wires and all looks and works great... however... i get weird ighting... the brew switches... when I am idle.. the light on right switch glows dimly, and if I activate any brew switch, the right light goes out and the left nad middle brew switches glow dimly... also when boiler refills, the same lighting issue.. left and middle light up, and right goes out... also.. when turning power to 1 ( no heat ) then the brew boiler light comes on dim... and of course one 2 the brew boiler light is bright as is should be... Im thinking it could have to do with fill box as I cant find any other issue... 

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Permalink Reply by Archtop67 on June 4, 2013 at 2:36pm

Well I found my issue once talkign with LM ... apparently t switches were exactly backwards! and one was reversed ( the 2 blues on switches... ) its all solved! they all glow perfectly! not as bright as I thought they do in pics, but they glow and LM didn't refer to that being an issue... maybe its just how the swithes from EP are... anyway... its working great now! 

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Permalink Reply by Thach Singkarat on June 4, 2013 at 9:15pm

Here are the wiring diagram, hope it can help.

Attachments:

• Linea_220_3AV_PID.pdf, 137 KB

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