New Your Bagel Cafe
Bagels are just the beginning
Published: Monday, September 15 2008 - The Edmonton Journal - Mike McCall, Freelance
NEW YORK BAGEL CAFE
Address: 8430 Gateway Boulevard, Edmonton
Phone: 432-2003
Cost: Breakfast for two, approximately $40
Its previous location was tragically destroyed by the Whyte Avenue fire of 2003, but New York Bagel Cafe is thriving despite relocating to an area with slightly less foot traffic. Its proximity to the Old Strathcona farmers market ensures it is still busy, so much so that you can expect a line-up on weekends. During the summer the patio is a popular draw, but all of this hubbub exists for simpler reasons: the food and the coffee.
Despite the new world name of the cafe, the coffee here displays a European love of quality espresso, which is used for all the coffee drinks. Even the regular coffee is served in the nuttier, more nuanced americano style (espresso diluted with hot water).
Though I am not normally a coffee drinker, even I cannot resist the iced coffee here. Served blended, the mixture has a finer texture than any other iced drink I've had. It holds its body well, but never clumps together, even at at the very end of the glass. The coffee flavour is mild but full, supported by cream much the same way a whisky is improved by adding a bit of water. My lady friend enjoyed the café borgia, described as a house special. Essentially a cafe mocha, it features orange peel that makes it seem as if there is triple sec in the drink (there isn't).
The place has a relaxed cafe atmosphere, and the tables are broken up by the large bar in the middle of the room. This gives each table a feeling of privacy, and it's easy to forget you aren't relaxing in your parlour at home. The service is laid back -- perhaps even slow -- but very good. Our server was happy to answer all our questions, even going out of her way to ask the chef when she didn't know the answer. This is not the place for a quick bite, conversely don't ever expect to feel rushed while enjoying a leisurely lunch any day of the week.
The menu is dominated by an extensive selection of bagel platters, and an almost as long list of eggs benedict style dishes. There are also a few other traditional breakfasts, and several daily specials. These usually include a daily benedict, burgers, soup, and an entree more along the lines of dinnertime fare.
My lady friend ordered the lox bagel, a classic dish executed well here. The cream cheese is deliciously smooth, and the capers abundant. The side of potato salad was excellent, highlighted by sour pickle and tangy dressing, and rounded out with plenty of vegetables. My other dining companion ordered the hala bread french toast, which is a remarkable success. The bread itself is light yet eggy and flavoured with cinnamon, but it holds up the generous serving of compote well. The mixed berries are sweet and have citrus flavour to them, and the maple syrup is faint but present. The flavours all stand individually, but work well in unison -- this is the best french toast I've had in Edmonton.
Both this and the goose and smoked cheese benedict I ordered had a pretty fruit salad the was surprising for the season. The benedict itself was a rich and piquant combination. The goose was thinly sliced and similar to prosciutto, but with a flavour like duck. The hollandaise was slightly thin, but not disappointing, though the toppings were what carried this dish. The smoked cheese unified the dish well, blending the flavour of the goose to the soft texture of the eggs.
The best part though was the truly perfect home fries on the side. Although I am a ketchup addict, I could not defile these with it. They displayed the two stage cooking that is often skipped as a shortcut, with a remarkably fluffy inside and almost malty taste surrounded by a thick and well browned crisp.
New York Bagel Cafe deftly manages its popularity by setting an easygoing pace. The aphorism that good food takes time is true here, but take that as an opportunity to try two of their delicious coffees every visit. Thankfully their brunch is available every day of the week, so avoid the queue if you can and enjoy this restaurant any time.
Published: Monday, September 15 2008 - The Edmonton Journal - Mike McCall, Freelance
NEW YORK BAGEL CAFE
Address: 8430 Gateway Boulevard, Edmonton
Phone: 432-2003
Cost: Breakfast for two, approximately $40
Its previous location was tragically destroyed by the Whyte Avenue fire of 2003, but New York Bagel Cafe is thriving despite relocating to an area with slightly less foot traffic. Its proximity to the Old Strathcona farmers market ensures it is still busy, so much so that you can expect a line-up on weekends. During the summer the patio is a popular draw, but all of this hubbub exists for simpler reasons: the food and the coffee.
Despite the new world name of the cafe, the coffee here displays a European love of quality espresso, which is used for all the coffee drinks. Even the regular coffee is served in the nuttier, more nuanced americano style (espresso diluted with hot water).
Though I am not normally a coffee drinker, even I cannot resist the iced coffee here. Served blended, the mixture has a finer texture than any other iced drink I've had. It holds its body well, but never clumps together, even at at the very end of the glass. The coffee flavour is mild but full, supported by cream much the same way a whisky is improved by adding a bit of water. My lady friend enjoyed the café borgia, described as a house special. Essentially a cafe mocha, it features orange peel that makes it seem as if there is triple sec in the drink (there isn't).
The place has a relaxed cafe atmosphere, and the tables are broken up by the large bar in the middle of the room. This gives each table a feeling of privacy, and it's easy to forget you aren't relaxing in your parlour at home. The service is laid back -- perhaps even slow -- but very good. Our server was happy to answer all our questions, even going out of her way to ask the chef when she didn't know the answer. This is not the place for a quick bite, conversely don't ever expect to feel rushed while enjoying a leisurely lunch any day of the week.
The menu is dominated by an extensive selection of bagel platters, and an almost as long list of eggs benedict style dishes. There are also a few other traditional breakfasts, and several daily specials. These usually include a daily benedict, burgers, soup, and an entree more along the lines of dinnertime fare.
My lady friend ordered the lox bagel, a classic dish executed well here. The cream cheese is deliciously smooth, and the capers abundant. The side of potato salad was excellent, highlighted by sour pickle and tangy dressing, and rounded out with plenty of vegetables. My other dining companion ordered the hala bread french toast, which is a remarkable success. The bread itself is light yet eggy and flavoured with cinnamon, but it holds up the generous serving of compote well. The mixed berries are sweet and have citrus flavour to them, and the maple syrup is faint but present. The flavours all stand individually, but work well in unison -- this is the best french toast I've had in Edmonton.
Both this and the goose and smoked cheese benedict I ordered had a pretty fruit salad the was surprising for the season. The benedict itself was a rich and piquant combination. The goose was thinly sliced and similar to prosciutto, but with a flavour like duck. The hollandaise was slightly thin, but not disappointing, though the toppings were what carried this dish. The smoked cheese unified the dish well, blending the flavour of the goose to the soft texture of the eggs.
The best part though was the truly perfect home fries on the side. Although I am a ketchup addict, I could not defile these with it. They displayed the two stage cooking that is often skipped as a shortcut, with a remarkably fluffy inside and almost malty taste surrounded by a thick and well browned crisp.
New York Bagel Cafe deftly manages its popularity by setting an easygoing pace. The aphorism that good food takes time is true here, but take that as an opportunity to try two of their delicious coffees every visit. Thankfully their brunch is available every day of the week, so avoid the queue if you can and enjoy this restaurant any time.
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