Many years ago rail was the way I used to get around Java. The Dutch built a comprehensive railway system in the 1880's designed to make passenger and goods transport from the interior easy. At one stage lones ran both West-East and North-South criss-crossing the entire island.

These days the railway runs from Jakarta through to Banyuwangi in the East of the island. Tracks service Bandung, Surabaya, Semarang, Yogyakarta, Blitar, Malang and Probolinggo. 10 years ago I used to make it a habit of taking the train where and when possible. Back then air transport was both unreliable and very expensive. The train (and boat network linking the islands) was a busy and viable alternative.

There are a variety of choices when it comes to trains- economy class, buisness class and executive. Economy (Ekonomi) class typically have bench type seats and no air conditioning. Not particular comfortable in Java hot, sticky days. Business (Bisnis) have air conditinaing and more comfortable seats, although they are often crowded. Executive (Eksekutif) trains are the luxury alternative. Fairly comfortable airline seats, airconditioned and complete with meals. Prices are around $15 for trips from Jakarta to Central Java, $25 all the way to Banyuwangi or Bali.

Revisiting the past Arlini, Elijah and I did a trip through to Arlini's home town of Yogyakarta. We left Jakarta at 8.45 and arrived in Yogyakarta (about 650km from Jakarta) at 5pm. The trip took us along the North Coast, then up over the divide and down onto the Southern Plain.

The trip was as memorable as the ones I took a decade earlier. The greeness of the rice field, the blues of the Mountain the mistiness of the pass going over into the South of the island. Fantastic and well worthwhile for visitors to Indonesia. The little things- the vendors at the various stations, the friendliness of the staff and the general "rocking" experience missing in many modern trains are all there.

The coffee? Well to be honest it was tradditional Indonesian coffee- Kopi tubruk. Finely ground robusta with heapings of sugar. It was though, good to the last drop!