Question for the techies...

Does the performance of a pressure-stat change as it ages? Will it respond more slowly or less accurately than a new one? What is the amount of variation in boiler pressure (between element cycles) that you'd expect to see in a non-PID'd, old-style hx machine?

I ask because I've noticed that the pressure in our machine (9 year old Astoria Argenta) varies between about .95 bar and 1.2 bar and I'm not sure if that is ok.

The espresso is ok, but I think it would be better at a higher temperature. Not sure how much effort to put into dialing in the pressure if we need a new pressure-stat first.

Any thoughts?

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Yes, they do deteriorate with age. I typically change them when they take more than .2-.3 bars to trigger when you open the wand. sounds like yours is right about to the point where I would change it, but still perfectly functional compared to many I have seen. Some places sell diaphragm kits so you don't have to change the whole thing, since it is usually just the diaphragm getting stiff from heat.

Hope this helps,

Dan
Thanks Dan. Will look for one of those kits. New pressurestat is $88 at EPNW.
Consider it routine, though infrequent, maintenance.
My experience with that type of switch is replace it every two years (if you use the machine daily). Not only does it become lazy (not start until pressure is very low) but the contacts will start to wear and eventually oxidize over. Its also a good idea to remove the steam tube that connects the pstat to the boiler and check for scale buildup. And since you have the machine taken apart and all of the steam emptied from the boiler, cleaning the fill probe and flushing the boiler is also good preventative maintenance. Hope you have fun!!
OK, sounds like it is time. Thanks all.

I did a full rebuild/descale about 2 years ago...BUT I did not do the pressurestat tube so this needs to be done. I have noticed some buildup (iron) on the inside of the sightglass in the last couple of weeks, so probably time to drain and refill. I do use the boiler water dispenser frequently to keep it moving (helps the drain line as well). Water is soft here so we just do carbon for turbidity/chlorine/taste. I have been monitoring the fill probe for buildup and seen very little so far.

This question of draining the boiler is going to generate a followup discussion under separate heading...
contacts do get oxidized think of old car ignition contacts gota change them too....

and yea those tubes get UGLY from tank to stat

Mickael said:
My experience with that type of switch is replace it every two years (if you use the machine daily). Not only does it become lazy (not start until pressure is very low) but the contacts will start to wear and eventually oxidize over. Its also a good idea to remove the steam tube that connects the pstat to the boiler and check for scale buildup. And since you have the machine taken apart and all of the steam emptied from the boiler, cleaning the fill probe and flushing the boiler is also good preventative maintenance. Hope you have fun!!
Bill and another nailed it. Scale development between the boiler and P stat. Slow reaction times will indicate that as the culprit.
Thanks guys.
I had another discussion on this topic, but wanted to ask again... any thoughts on the advisability of descaling the boiler and tubes while they were fully assembled?

I know that many do this, and others say that you must fully disassemble and descale the parts separately. It would be nice to just be able to dump some Dezcale in through the pressure safety valve hole, wait a few minutes, and then do a drain (siphon) and thorough rinse... sounds like a short Sunday afternoon project as opposed to a full weekend.

Looking forward to thoughts on this. Thanks!

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