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things to look for...
centrifuge fat separation...how does the processing facility separate the solids upon reception of the raw milk from the farm. there are two methods: warm bowl and cold bowl. warm bowls are faster and more modern, but heat the milk as the fats are being separated, dramatically reducing the sweetness in the finished product. cold bowls are harder to come by, but produce much sweeter milk. the processing of milk can be compared to roasting, you can have extremely high quality raw dairy product coming in, and F it all up in the processing method.
look for milk that comes from cows that have not been treated with hormones (RBST, RBGH).
taste, taste, taste. when milk professionals evaluate milk for defect and quality, they have certain methods they use just as we do in coffee. for us, when we roast samples for cupping, we roast very lightly to not mask the coffee with any kind roast profile. this shows us any defects that are in the coffee, and if you've been at it long enough, you can tell what more can be done with a particular roast profile. with milk, tast nonfat milk. fat, like roast, masks defect and can artificially enhance sweetness.
gather all the non-fat milks you can (even different packaging of the same brand!) and taste them blindly side-by-side. you will notice huge differences. the reason i mention packaging is because often, depending on the market, the same milk will be processed in different facilities and end up in similar (but slightly different packaging). this is often the case for organic valley's line of dairy products.
hope this helps.
--stephen
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