The narrative of "we need to treat coffee like wine" has been thrown around a lot over the last 5 years, and is gaining a lot of ground. I think it should. But I've been aware of some pitfalls that may confront us as an industry unless we have some evidence to work from and I for one am having a hard time finding it.
Can anyone direct me to some some sources that examine how soil type, environmental conditions, altitude, and flora/fauna conditions effect varietal taste/flavor considerations? In a similar vein, general taste/flavor considerations of varietals regardless of geographic consideration? A lot of work has been put into the taste distinctions of natural vs. washed vs. pulped naturals, but are there any extensive taste records of these findings? All that I can find seem to contain vague generalities.
The reason I ask is because it's starting to feel gimmicky to add considerations such as varietal or soil types to packaging when it's hard to read as to what that information adds in terms of actual taste/flavor considerations. In viticultural studies, it can be explained why Loire-valley (geography) Gamay-driven (varietal) bottles taste the way they do -- most appellations in the Loire have high alkaline concentrations in the soil, leading Gamay, generally an off-dry high-acid medium grape, to retain higher levels of acidity due to hydrological stress (high alkaline soil prevents deep rooting of Gamay vines), in turn leading most vintners to apply carbonic masceration in order to curb the high-acidity of the wine when not blended. (Vines, Grapes & Wines, J. Robinson, 2004. pg 202-4) Comparatively, Australian Gamay done at similar elevation in the sandy soil of Victoria is rounder, with a higher tannin level leading to it being strictly malolactic or alcoholic fermentation. (Understanding Wine, D. Bird, 2005)
So two questions: One, does anyone know of any resources for being able to determine similarly for coffee varietals? And two, is it wrong to think it dangerous to start applying such modelling without that background knowledge to work from?
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