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Lake Atitlán, Sololá. Guatemala. |
Welcome to paradise, I thought, as I contemplated in awe the remarkable phenomenon
a sunset constitutes while in Lake Atitlán. As I stood amongst coffee trees in
the middle of the plantation I felt the urge to remain a permanent part in that
figure of vanishing history, but the thunder in the distance was a constant
reminder that galloping down the muddy road was the best way of staying alive.
As I ran towards the shore the burst of the smell of fresh flowers was
intoxicating, invading the atmosphere as the winds from Xocomil blew in my face
shouting a call of imminent rain. I splashed my boots on the rocky shore and
tied a rope to my boat as the engine wouldn't start. Way back will have to be
uphill on the slope of the San Pedro, and it had gotten dark. My hike was a
difficult one, as I covered my face with my arms while searching amongst the
darkness.
Tired and hungry my arms reached around me and finally pulled a couple of
cherries from a coffee tree. As the fruity felling entered my tongue I felt assured and a
little less frightened. A splash of sweet and slimy elixir invaded my mouth as
my teeth carved into the cherry and my tongue played around with a couple of
beans wrapped in humid parchment. I was about to place the second cherry in my
mouth when, at some distance a shrine engulfed by trees shone in campfire wood.
I made my way slowly around the rocks and was heartbroken when arriving at the
spot understood it had been recently deserted. Moments later once again I saw a
light amongst the bourbons, and this time ran as well as I could towards it in
the night. Entering a small clearing surrounded by coffee trees I saw the dim
fire. The small circle washed in red tones reflected by coffee cherries was
cool, and as much I longed for heat, there was none coming out of that fire. At
the base of the coffee trees I could see the shapes of dimly lit yellow
rabbits. Alarm shocks ran through my body building up on the knowledge of
ancient legends from this country. I had given a couple of steps back when my
back pushed against a branch. Although that was no branch and this was no
ordinary night. As I turned around, a deer stood with its head between the
branches of the catuai in front of me. It stared with human eyes as the fire
that made an effort to burn in that isolated spot in the plantation, erupted
towards the sky in thousands of splintered fragments of light. The heatless
concentration had been formed by fireflies that now spread through the whole
forest. As the deer and I ran in opposite directions the small glowing bugs
where all around me, on my eyes, on my hands and body making me glow with them.
I was shaking them off and running downhill, if only I could reach the shore
I'd be safe! When at last half my body was inside the lake, I no longer could
see the fireflies. They were now inside the lake, dancing beneath the subtle
waves but completely transformed. No longer bugs but the mimic of the stars
reflected on the water.
To be continued...
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